Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
